Wau
Wau & Papua New Guinea
From raw stone-age beginnings, through early colonial control, to independent Commonwealth State, Papua New Guinea has developed at breathtaking speed to be recognised today as one of Melanesia’s iconic leaders. The road has not always been smooth, and there may still be a long way to go, but PNG represents one of the last truly tribal cultures to join the 21st century. With the continued support of many of the world’s leading powers, PNG can look forward to a prosperous future, offering its own unique perspective to the global community.
Wau, and Morobe Province, might be described as a microcosm of what PNG has experienced, and all it has to offer. Tribal systems and ancient traditions abound, and despite waning resources and infrastructure, the people maintain a venerable balance between their simple origins and modern living. A tumultuous introduction to European expansion lead to colonisation, gold rushes, world war, and eventual independent rule. Reminders of these trials and tribulations, in unlikely unison with the country’s humble roots, are all right here in Wau, even today.
Local history
In 1920, a patrol team from the Australian administrative post at Salamaua, crossed the mighty Kuper Range, through the Black Cat pass, into the Bulolo Valley. In search of land, resources and local support, they turned North and circled around to the Markham Valley and back into Lae. Several years later, Australian gold prospectors followed this same route into the local valley, instead following their thirst for riches, up Mt Kaindi to Edie Creek. They discovered what was to be the largest gold find in history; literally kicking nuggets along the ground.
A gold rush ensued, giving rise to the only such operation in the world supported entirely by air. Rations, equipment, personnel, and enormous dredge sections, were flown into Wau’s now famous strip. Aviation pioneers and adventurers flocked to the area, where many aviation records were set. In its heyday, almost 700 Europeans were living and working in Wau, including such colourful characters as Errol Flynn. The township of Bulolo was established through this period, and as gold resources slowly began to dwindle, it soon became the centre for massive mills, logging the natural pine reserves. The mills continue to process timber in the area to this day.
The Pacific Conflict reached PNG shores in the late 1930’s, leading to widespread fighting between allied and Japanese forces, along the Northern and Eastern coastlines, and island regions. Lae and Salamaua fell to Imperial Japanes forces in the early 1940’s, and Wau became a crucial forward post to US and Australian forces in Port Moresby. The ‘Papua New Guinea Volunteer Rifles’ and specialist ‘Kanga Force’, mostly consisting of ex gold miners and timber workers, led unprecedented raids and reconnaissance missions from their base in Wau. The old Black Cat gold route now became a crucial battle line and a resupply route was established from Port Moresby in the South, across the Owen Stanley Range to Wau. In January 1943, the Japanese launched a massive attack against Wau, from Salamaua, resisted by minimal forces, and constant aerial resupply and reinforcement. Wau was never lost to the invaders, although when it seemed imminent, orders were given to raze the township. An entire town, decades of history, and many lives, were lost that day. A short time later, control of Lae, Salamaua, and the country as a whole was regained.
Military units were soon disbanded, and those who did not return to Australia or abroad, again started gold prospecting and timber processing, although never to the fever pitch of pre-war operations. The area continued to prosper, until independence, when infrastructure and resource management fell to the wayside. Today, private businesses, and sheer determination on the part of the locals, maintain the existence and historical roots of this amazing town.